Anubias are among the most popular and undemanding plants in freshwater aquaristics. Among them, the dwarf Anubias, known as Anubias Nana (Anubias barteri var. nana), has rightfully earned the title of “king of driftwood.” This plant is ideal for hardscape decoration as it does not require planting in the substrate and possesses exceptional resistance to unfavorable conditions. Thanks to its compact size and slow growth, Anubias Nana is an indispensable element for both nano-aquariums and large Dutch or natural aquariums, where it serves as a point of contrast.
Anubias Nana: The Driftwood King in Your Aquarium
Anubias Nana is an epiphytic plant, meaning in nature it grows by attaching itself to rocks and submerged trees. This is a key factor determining its maintenance methods in an aquarium. The main feature every aquarist should know: the rhizome of Anubias Nana must always be above the surface, attached to the substrate, not buried in the soil.
Using Anubias Nana on driftwood is not only aesthetically beneficial but also biologically advantageous. The plant creates natural hiding places for fry and small fish, and its tough leaves are not susceptible to attacks from most herbivorous inhabitants.
Anubias Nana: Botanical Description and Varieties
Anubias barteri var. nana is a slow-growing, evergreen plant from the Araceae family. Its homeland is the tropical forests of West Africa, where it grows along riverbanks, often in a semi-submerged state.
Botanical Characteristics
- Rhizome: A thick, creeping rhizome from which roots (for attachment) and leaf petioles emerge. The rhizome itself stores nutrients.
- Leaves: Dense, leathery, oval or heart-shaped, dark green in color. Leaf length rarely exceeds 6–8 cm.
- Growth: Extremely slow. In ideal conditions, it produces 1–2 leaves per month.
Popular Varieties
While the standard Anubias Nana is the most common, there are other dwarf forms that are also ideal for attaching to driftwood:
- Anubias Nana ‘Petite’ (Anubias barteri var. nana ‘Petite’): The most miniature form. Leaves reach only 1–2 cm in length. Ideal for nano-aquariums and the foreground.
- Anubias Nana ‘Golden’ (Anubias barteri var. nana ‘Golden’): Characterized by bright yellow-green or golden leaf coloration. Requires slightly more moderate lighting to avoid burns.
- Anubias Nana ‘Striped’ (Anubias barteri var. nana ‘Striped’): A rare form with characteristic light veins on the leaves.
Why Anubias Nana is Ideal for Driftwood: Advantages and Features
Combining Anubias Nana with natural driftwood (e.g., mangrove, mopani, or grape vine) creates a classic, stable, and biologically balanced aquarium landscape. Its unique properties make it the best choice for hardscaping.
Advantages of Attaching to Driftwood
- Rhizome Protection: Driftwood provides a secure support, ensuring that the rhizome is not buried in the substrate, which inevitably leads to rot and plant death.
- Mobility: A plant attached to driftwood can be easily moved around the aquarium during cleaning or design changes.
- Low Light Requirements: Anubias Nana thrives even in the shade of other plants or in low light conditions, which is often the case under overhanging driftwood.
- Fish Resistance: The tough, slightly bitter leaves deter most herbivorous fish, such as large cichlids or goldfish.
- Aesthetics: Over time, the roots of Anubias will weave around the driftwood, creating the impression of an old, established underwater landscape.
Planting and Attaching Anubias Nana to Driftwood: Step-by-Step Guide
The process of attaching the plant to a hard surface requires care. The main task is to ensure a secure fixation without damaging the rhizome.
Plant Preparation
Before attaching, the plant needs to be prepared, especially if it was purchased “emersed” (out of water):
- Thoroughly rinse the roots and leaves to remove any nutrient gel or substrate residue.
- Inspect the rhizome: remove any damaged or yellowed leaves and rotten root sections.
- If the rhizome is too long, it can be carefully divided with a sharp, clean knife into several parts, ensuring each new section has at least 3–4 healthy leaves.
Attachment Methods
There are two main, time-tested methods for securing Anubias to driftwood:
1. Attaching with Thread or Fishing Line
This is the most traditional and safest method. Use thin cotton thread, which decomposes over time, or thin fishing line (monofilament), which is virtually invisible.
- Place the rhizome on the desired spot on the driftwood.
- Carefully wrap the rhizome with thread or fishing line, making turns around the driftwood. Important: Do not tie the thread too tightly, to avoid constricting the rhizome, but it should be firm enough to prevent the plant from shifting.
- After a few weeks, Anubias will develop roots that will naturally adhere to the wood. Once this happens, the thread can be removed (if fishing line was used) or left in place (if cotton thread was used).
2. Attaching with Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate)
A modern, fast, and effective method that is completely safe for aquarium inhabitants after it dries.
- Use gel-based super glue (gel is more convenient as it doesn’t run underwater).
- Apply a small drop of glue directly to the underside of the rhizome.
- Press the rhizome firmly against the driftwood and hold for 10–20 seconds.
- The glue will polymerize instantly upon contact with water.
- Caution: Apply the glue only to the rhizome or roots, avoiding contact with the leaves.
Caring for Anubias Nana on Driftwood: Light, Water, Fertilizers
One of the reasons for Anubias Nana’s popularity is its phenomenal hardiness. However, to achieve an ideal appearance and prevent algae, a few simple care rules must be followed.
Lighting
Anubias Nana prefers low to moderate lighting. It is a plant that easily adapts to shade, which is ideal if it is attached to the base of a large piece of driftwood.
- Low Light (0.2–0.4 W/L): Sufficient for survival and slow growth.
- Moderate Light (0.5–0.7 W/L): Promotes better growth but requires algae control.
- Excessive Light: Direct, intense lighting leads to active growth of Xenococcus (spotty green algae) on the leaves, significantly degrading the plant’s appearance.
Water Parameters
Anubias Nana is extremely tolerant of various water parameters but prefers stable conditions characteristic of tropical rivers.
- Temperature: 22–28°C (ideally 24–26°C).
- pH: 6.0–7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral).
- Hardness (GH/KH): Soft to moderate.
Fertilizers and CO2
Since Anubias Nana primarily absorbs nutrients from the water rather than the substrate, it requires liquid fertilizers.
- Macronutrients: Not essential in aquariums with many fish, as they provide sufficient nitrates and phosphates.
- Micronutrients: Regular supplementation of iron and potassium is critically important to prevent leaf yellowing (chlorosis).
- CO2: Additional carbon dioxide supply is not mandatory but significantly accelerates growth and improves the plant’s overall health.
Potential Problems with Growing Anubias Nana and Their Solutions
Despite its hardiness, Anubias Nana can encounter several specific problems, most of which are related to its slow growth.
1. Algae Growth (Xenococcus)
This is the most common problem. Due to slow cell turnover, Anubias leaves become an ideal surface for green spot algae (Xenococcus) to attach to.
- Cause: Lighting that is too strong or too long, phosphate imbalance.
- Solution: Reduce light intensity or move the driftwood with the plant to a more shaded area. Regularly clean the leaves using a soft sponge or toothbrush, or introduce algae-eating fish (e.g., Otocinclus – Otocinclus affinis).
2. Rhizome Rot
A fatal threat to Anubias.
- Cause: Burying the rhizome in the substrate or damaging it.
- Solution: Immediately remove the plant. Cut away all blackened or soft sections of the rhizome down to healthy green tissue. Treat the cut and reattach the plant to driftwood, ensuring the rhizome is completely above water.
3. Chlorosis (Leaf Yellowing)
Leaves turn yellow, but the veins remain green.
- Cause: Deficiency of iron or other micronutrients.
- Solution: Administer comprehensive liquid fertilizers containing chelated iron.
Anubias Nana and Neighbors: Compatibility with Fish and Other Plants
Due to its texture and toughness, Anubias Nana is an ideal plant for aquariums housing fish prone to eating vegetation.
Fish Compatibility
- Ideal Neighbors: Tetras (Paracheirodon spp.), Rasboras (Rasbora spp.), Corydoras catfish (Corydoras), shrimp (e.g., Cherry Shrimp – Neocaridina davidi).
- Fish that will not harm it: Most livebearers, labyrinth fish (bettas, gouramis).
- Fish that Anubias can withstand: Goldfish (Carassius auratus) and large herbivorous cichlids, which generally ignore its tough leaves.
Compatibility with Other Plants
Anubias Nana pairs excellently with other epiphytic plants that also attach to driftwood and rocks. This allows for the creation of a richly textured underwater landscape.
- Ferns: Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus) – often used together to create a jungle effect.
- Mosses: Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri) or Christmas Moss (Vesicularia dubyana) – perfectly fill the space between driftwood and the Anubias rhizome, creating a natural transition.
- Bucephalandra (Bucephalandra spp.): Also epiphytes, requiring similar conditions, ideal for adding detail.
FAQ: Answers to the Most Popular Questions About Anubias Nana
1. How fast does Anubias Nana grow?
This is one of the slowest-growing aquarium plants. In good conditions, it can produce 1–2 new leaves per month. This is why it is so resistant to algae but requires patience.
2. Can Anubias Nana be kept in a paludarium?
Yes, Anubias are amphibious plants. They grow excellently out of water (emersed), where they often flower (producing white or greenish flowers). Their growth often accelerates in the emersed state.
3. How to propagate Anubias Nana?
Propagation occurs exclusively by dividing the rhizome. It is necessary to cut off a piece of the rhizome with at least 3–4 healthy leaves and attach the new fragment to another piece of driftwood or rock.
4. Does Anubias Nana need nutrient-rich substrate?
No. It does not absorb nutrients from the substrate. Moreover, if its rhizome is buried in nutrient-rich substrate, it will very likely rot. The plant receives all necessary nutrients from the water.
5. Why are my Anubias leaves covered in black film?
This is likely “black beard algae” (BBA, Audouinella). It is a sign of CO2 instability or macronutrient deficiency. Since Anubias grow very slowly, they easily fall victim to BBA. It is recommended to increase water circulation and possibly apply localized treatment with liquid carbon (glutaraldehyde) to the affected areas.