The Angelfish, or Pterophyllum scalare, rightfully holds a place as one of the most majestic and recognizable freshwater fish. Its graceful, disc-shaped body and long, filamentous fins give it a regal appearance, which is why it earned the nickname “Queen of the Aquarium.” However, despite its popularity, keeping angelfish requires aquarists to understand their specific needs, especially regarding aquarium volume and water quality. The taba.su portal has prepared a comprehensive guide that will help both beginners and experienced enthusiasts create ideal conditions for these beautiful cichlids.
Angelfish: The Queen of the Aquarium – Everything a Beginner Needs to Know
Angelfish are representatives of the Cichlidae family, native to South America, where they inhabit the slow-moving waters of the Amazon and its tributaries. In the wild, they live among dense plant growth and submerged roots, which directly influences the requirements for decorating a home aquarium.
Key characteristics of angelfish:
- Size: In height, including fins, they can reach 20–25 cm.
- Lifespan: With proper care, they live 10–15 years.
- Temperament: Relatively peaceful, but can exhibit territoriality, especially during spawning.
- Social behavior: Prefer to live in groups of 4–6 individuals. Solitary confinement leads to stress and illness.
Successful angelfish keeping begins with the understanding that these are large fish that require ample space for vertical movement.
Angelfish Species: From Classic to Exotic
Although the genus Pterophyllum has only three main species (P. scalare, P. altum, P. leopoldi), selective breeding has resulted in a vast number of color and form variations, most of which are variations of P. scalare.
Most popular angelfish morphs:
- Classic (Silver). Retains its natural coloration: a silver body with four vertical black stripes.
- Marble (Marmor). Characterized by a chaotic pattern of black, gray, and white spots.
- Black (Black). Completely or almost completely black individuals. Maintaining rich color requires good genetics and quality nutrition.
- Koi (Koi). Tricolor fish, combining white, orange (red), and black colors.
- Veil (Veil). Distinguished by its greatly elongated, flowing fins. Requires special attention to compatibility, as the fins can become targets for other fish.
- Altum (Pterophyllum altum). Considered the largest and most challenging species to keep. Distinguished by a high dorsal fin and a concave head profile. Requires very soft and acidic water.
When choosing fish, always opt for young individuals raised in local conditions, as they adapt better to the water parameters in a home aquarium.
The Ideal Aquarium for Angelfish: Size, Decor, and Equipment
The main requirement for an angelfish aquarium is height. Since these fish have tall bodies and long fins, standard low aquariums are not suitable for them.
Minimum Volume and Shape Requirements
- For a group of 4–6 young individuals, the minimum volume is 150–200 liters.
- The minimum aquarium height should be 50 cm, preferably 60 cm.
- For large adult pairs or for keeping with other large fish, a volume of 300 liters or more is recommended.
Decor and Substrate
The decor should mimic their natural environment: dense vegetation and vertical hiding places.
- Substrate: Fine gravel or sand in dark shades. Dark substrate helps angelfish feel secure and enhances their coloration.
- Plants: Necessary for hiding and creating spawning zones. Large, hard-leaved species are ideal: Echinodorus, Cryptocoryne, and long-stemmed Vallisneria.
- Decorations: Driftwood and vertically arranged flat stones. Driftwood not only serves as a hiding place but also releases tannins, which slightly acidify the water, beneficial for angelfish.
Required Equipment
Since angelfish are sensitive to water quality, the equipment must be powerful and reliable.
- Filtration: An external canister filter with a good capacity margin is essential. The filter should provide both mechanical and biological filtration.
- Aeration: A powerful air pump. The water must be oxygen-rich, but the current should not be too strong.
- Heating: A reliable thermostat capable of maintaining a stable temperature.
Keeping and Caring for Angelfish: Water Parameters, Feeding, and Compatibility
Stable water parameters are key to the longevity and health of angelfish.
Ideal Water Parameters
Angelfish prefer soft, slightly acidic to neutral water, mimicking their natural biotope.
- Temperature (T): 24–28 °C. To stimulate spawning, the temperature is raised to 28–30 °C.
- Acidity (pH): 6.5–7.5. Hard alkaline water (pH above 8.0) can lead to digestive and fin problems.
- Hardness (dH): 5–12 °dH. Softer water (up to 5 °dH) is required for breeding.
- Water Changes: 25–30% of the water should be replaced weekly with fresh, dechlorinated water.
Important: Nitrates and nitrites should be minimized. Angelfish tolerate the accumulation of organic waste very poorly.
Diet and Feeding
Angelfish are omnivorous fish. Their diet should be as varied and balanced as possible.
- Dry foods: High-quality flakes and pellets designed for cichlids or large tropical fish. These should form the basis of the diet.
- Live and frozen foods: Bloodworms, brine shrimp, tubifex. These foods stimulate growth, improve coloration, and are essential for preparing breeders for spawning.
- Vegetable supplements: Foods with spirulina or finely chopped vegetables (e.g., blanched spinach) should be included to prevent digestive issues.
Angelfish should be fed 2–3 times a day in small portions that they consume within 2–3 minutes. Overfeeding is the primary cause of water pollution and disease.
Compatibility with Other Fish
Angelfish, as cichlids, can be territorial, especially adults. Compatibility depends on the aquarium size and the temperament of the tank mates.
Good tank mates:
- Large tetras (e.g., Congo Tetra — Phenacogrammus interruptus).
- Corydoras catfish (Corydoras) and Ancistrus catfish (Ancistrus).
- Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia).
- Some labyrinth fish (e.g., Gouramis — Trichopodus).
Who to avoid:
- Aggressive fin-nippers: Tiger Barbs (Puntigrus tetrazona) and Serpae Tetras. They will nip at the long fins of angelfish.
- Too small fish: Neon Tetras (Paracheirodon innesi) or Guppies. Adult angelfish may perceive them as food.
Breeding Angelfish in a Home Aquarium: From Pair Selection to Fry Rearing
Breeding angelfish at home is quite possible, as they readily spawn and are attentive parents.
Forming a Pair
Angelfish form monogamous pairs. The best way to get a pair is to purchase a group of 6–8 young fish and allow them to pair up naturally as they mature (usually by 10–12 months). The chosen pair will stick together and defend their territory.
Preparing for Spawning
To stimulate spawning, conditions mimicking the rainy season should be created:
- Increase the temperature to 28–30 °C.
- Soften the water (ideally 4–8 °dH).
- Perform small daily water changes (10–15%) with soft, fresh water.
- Increase the proportion of protein-rich (live) food in the diet.
Spawning Process and Egg Care
Angelfish lay their eggs on vertical surfaces: broad plant leaves (Echinodorus), flat stones, vertically oriented tubes, or even the aquarium glass.
Actions after spawning:
- The pair diligently guards the eggs, fanning them with their fins for ventilation and removing unfertilized (white) eggs.
- If the goal is to raise the maximum number of fry, it is best to move the eggs to a separate breeding tank (20–40 liters) with the same water parameters.
- Methylene blue is added to the breeding tank to prevent fungal infections.
- Larvae hatch in 2–3 days, and after 5–7 days, they transition to the fry stage and begin to swim freely.
Rearing Fry
Angelfish fry are very small and require starter food:
- Initial stage: Infusoria (for the first 1–2 days).
- Main food: Brine shrimp nauplii (live). This is a critically important food for the rapid growth of fry.
- After 3–4 weeks, finely ground dry food can be gradually introduced.
Angelfish Diseases and Treatment: Diagnosis and Prevention
Angelfish are quite hardy but sensitive to sudden changes in water parameters and stress. Most diseases are related to poor hygiene or low-quality food.
Most Common Diseases
- Ichthyophthirius (White Spot Disease): Caused by the protozoan Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. Symptoms: white spots resembling coarse salt all over the body and fins. Treatment: increase temperature to 30 °C (if no other sensitive fish are present) and use specialized antiparasitic medications.
- Hexamitiasis (Hole-in-the-Head Disease): Caused by flagellates of the genus Hexamita. Symptoms: lethargy, white mucous feces, ulcers, and erosions on the head and along the lateral line. Often occurs due to poor water quality and unbalanced nutrition. Treatment: metronidazole (in food and water).
- Fin Rot: A bacterial infection, often secondary. Fins become ragged, cloudy, and the edges disintegrate. Treatment: antibacterial medications and immediate improvement of water quality.
The Key to Prevention
Prevention is always more effective than treatment:
- Quarantine: All new fish should undergo a two-week quarantine in a separate aquarium.
- Stability: Avoid sudden fluctuations in temperature and pH.
- Cleanliness: Regular water changes and substrate cleaning (siphoning).
Expert Tips: Secrets to Successful Angelfish Keeping
Years of experience keeping angelfish allow us to highlight several non-obvious but important aspects that ensure their well-being.
- Lighting: Angelfish prefer moderate to dim lighting, similar to their natural environment under the canopy of the rainforest. Too bright light causes stress.
- Consider vertical size: When calculating stocking density, always consider height, not just aquarium length. Overstocking in a tall aquarium is less common than in a short one.
- Pair dominance: In a group of angelfish, a hierarchy always forms. The largest and strongest individual will dominate. This is normal as long as it doesn’t lead to injuries or starvation of other fish.
- Fin regeneration: If fins are damaged (due to fighting or bacteria), maintaining perfectly clean water is the best way for them to regenerate.
Angelfish: FAQ and Interesting Facts
taba.su experts answer frequently asked questions.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Question: How to distinguish a male angelfish from a female?
Answer: Sexual dimorphism is weakly expressed. Adult males often have a more prominent forehead (fat hump) and a larger body. During the spawning period, the reproductive organs become visible: the female has a blunt and wide ovipositor, while the male has a pointed and narrow one.
Question: Why are my angelfish hiding?
Answer: Hiding is a natural need. If they are constantly hiding, it may indicate stress (too bright light, aggressive tank mates, poor water parameters) or illness.
Question: Can Veil Angelfish be kept with barbs?
Answer: Strictly not recommended. Barbs (especially Tiger Barbs) are aggressive fin-nippers and will inevitably damage the long fins of veil-fin varieties, leading to stress and secondary infections.
Interesting Facts about Pterophyllum
- In the wild, angelfish often live in blackwater biotopes, rich in humic acids (released by driftwood and fallen leaves).
- The genus Pterophyllum literally means “winged leaf” – a reference to their thin, tall, leaf-like body.
- Angelfish, unlike most other aquarium fish, are capable of recognizing their owner and will swim to the front glass of the aquarium during feeding.