Tylomelania (Tylomelania sp.) are among the most impressive freshwater snails that have become a real trend in modern aquaristics. Due to their characteristic appearance, resembling a long proboscis, they have earned the affectionate nickname “rabbit snails.” They are endemic to the Indonesian island of Sulawesi, specifically the Poso and Malili lake systems, and require specific keeping conditions. On the taba.su portal, we will examine in detail the two most popular and vibrant morphs: the orange and yellow Tylomelania, their needs, and the intricacies of breeding.
Successful keeping of these invertebrates directly depends on recreating the hard, warm, and alkaline environment characteristic of their natural biotope. Tylomelania are not just aquarium decorations; they are sensitive indicators of system stability and require a careful approach, especially regarding the mineral composition of the water.
Introduction: Getting to Know Tylomelania – The Pearls of Sulawesi
Snails of the genus Tylomelania belong to the family Pachychilidae and are distinguished by their large size, reaching 8–12 cm in length. Their distinctive feature is a massive, conical shell and a long, mobile “trunk” or mouthpart, which they use for foraging. These snails are incredibly active, especially at night, and can significantly liven up an aquarium landscape. However, despite their striking appearance, they remain quite delicate creatures, poorly tolerating sudden changes in water parameters.
- Origin: Sulawesi Lakes (Poso, Malili).
- Size: Up to 12 cm depending on the species.
- Lifespan: In good conditions, they can live up to 5–8 years.
- Special Feature: Slow reproduction and a need for hard water.
Comparison and Identification: Orange and Yellow Tylomelania – Appearance and Behavior
While there are many species of Tylomelania, the orange and yellow morphs are the most sought after. They are often kept together, but it is important for aquarists to be able to distinguish them, as they may sometimes have slightly different behavioral patterns or lighting requirements.
Orange Tylomelania (Tylomelania sp. Orange)
This morph is perhaps the most popular. Its body and foot have a rich, almost neon orange color. The shell is typically black or dark brown, creating a striking contrast with the bright body. Orange Tylomelania are considered among the largest and most active representatives of the genus.
- Body: Rich orange, often with a slight ripple.
- Shell: Usually dark, smooth or slightly ribbed.
- Behavior: Often crawl on the substrate and decorations, less likely to burrow.
Yellow Tylomelania (Tylomelania sp. Yellow/Gold)
Yellow Tylomelania range from pale yellow to deep golden hues. Their shells can be lighter than those of the orange ones, sometimes having a brownish-yellow tint. They appear more delicate and often prefer areas with less light.
- Body: From pale cream to golden yellow.
- Shell: Can be light, making camouflage difficult.
- Behavior: Tend to burrow in soft substrate, especially during daylight hours.
Ideal Keeping Conditions: Recreating the Sulawesi Biotope for Tylomelania
The key to a long and healthy life for Tylomelania is stability and the correct chemical composition of the water. These snails cannot tolerate soft and acidic water, which quickly damages their shells.
Water Parameters: Hardness and pH
Tylomelania require very warm and hard water. If the water is too soft (low GH), the snail will not be able to build and maintain its shell, leading to erosion and premature death.
- Temperature: 26°C – 30°C (they do not tolerate cold).
- pH (acidity): 7.5 – 8.5 (strictly alkaline environment).
- GH (general hardness): 10 – 20 dGH.
- KH (carbonate hardness): 8 – 15 dKH (important for pH buffering).
Aquarium Setup and Substrate
The correct substrate is important for these snails, as they like to burrow. It is recommended to use sand or very fine gravel. Coarse, sharp gravel can damage their soft foot.
- Substrate: Sand or very fine, rounded gravel.
- Decorations: Rocks and driftwood that do not release tannins (which can lower pH).
- Plants: It is better to use hard-leaved species such as Anubias and Microsorum ferns, as soft plants may be eaten.
Ensuring Calcium Supply
Since calcium is the building material for the shell, it is necessary to regularly check its level and add it if necessary. Special mineralizers for shrimp and snails, or natural sources, can be used.
- Calcium Sources: Cuttlefish bone, crushed marble in the substrate, or special mineral supplements.
Diet and Feeding: Secrets to Vibrant Coloration and Health in Tylomelania
Tylomelania are omnivores, but their diet must be balanced and rich in plant components. They are active scavengers and detritivores, helping to clean the aquarium of leftover food and algae. To maintain their vibrant orange or yellow color, foods containing carotenoids are necessary.
Main Diet
- Specialized Foods: Tablets for bottom-dwelling fish and snails containing spirulina and calcium.
- Vegetable Food: Blanched zucchini, spinach, lettuce leaves. These foods should form a significant part of the diet.
- Protein Component: Occasionally, a small amount of frozen bloodworms or daphnia can be given, but do not overfeed with protein.
Important Feeding Tips
It is best to feed Tylomelania in the evening, as they are most active in the dark. It is important to provide enough food so that they do not start actively eating aquarium plants, especially young shoots.
- Need for Fiber: Ensure there are driftwood pieces in the aquarium that the snails can scrape.
- Avoid Overfeeding: Uneaten food remnants quickly spoil the water, which is critical for snails.
Compatibility and Tank Mates: Creating a Peaceful Community
Tylomelania are slow-moving and have no active defense mechanism (other than the operculum with which they close their shell). Their long proboscis can be an attractive target for aggressive or curious fish. Tank mates should be peaceful and not prone to attacking the snail’s shell or soft tissues.
Ideal Tank Mates
- Small Characins: Neons (Paracheirodon innesi), Tetras (Hyphessobrycon).
- Peaceful Catfish: Corydoras, Otocinclus.
- Shrimp: Amano shrimp (Caridina multidentata) or Cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi), if water parameters are suitable for all.
Unsuitable Tank Mates
It is strictly not recommended to keep Tylomelania with fish that can damage their shell or operculum.
- Loaches: Especially Clown Loaches (Chromobotia macracanthus), which are known for their ability to suck snails out of their shells.
- Large and Aggressive Cichlids: Many cichlid species, even herbivores, can harm snails.
- Predatory Snails: Assassin snails (Anentome helena).
Breeding Tylomelania at Home: From Spawning to Fry
Tylomelania are dioecious and viviparous (more precisely, ovoviviparous). This means that the female carries the egg inside her, and a fully formed small snail emerges. The breeding process is slow, which makes these snails less invasive than, for example, Malaysian Trumpet Snails.
Sex Determination and Mating Process
Sexual dimorphism in Tylomelania is weakly expressed, and it is very difficult to determine sex visually. Full reproduction in the aquarium occurs if there are individuals of both sexes in the group and the keeping conditions are optimal (high temperature, stable food supply).
- Reproduction Rate: A female produces 1–2 offspring approximately every 4–6 weeks.
- Gestation: The egg develops inside the female’s mantle cavity.
Appearance of Offspring
When the snail is ready, it lays a large white or translucent cocoon, inside which is a formed juvenile. This cocoon quickly dissolves, and the small Tylomelania (about 5–10 mm) begins its independent life. Young snails have the same water and food requirements as adults.
- Fry Size: Large enough not to be eaten by most peaceful fish.
- Care for Juveniles: Provide finely dispersed food (powdered foods, crushed tablets) and sufficient calcium.
Common Problems and Their Solutions: Health and Disease Prevention
Most problems aquarists encounter when keeping Tylomelania are not related to diseases but to suboptimal water parameters or improper nutrition. A healthy Tylomelania is active, its body is firm, and its shell has no visible defects.
Problem 1: Shell Erosion
This is the most common problem, caused by low pH or calcium deficiency.
- Cause: Water that is too soft or acidic (pH below 7.0).
- Solution: Raise and stabilize GH and KH. Add calcium to the water or substrate (cuttlefish bone, mineral stones).
Problem 2: Lethargy and Lack of Activity
The snail stays in one place for a long time, does not feed, and may not fully close its operculum.
- Cause: Temperature too low (below 25°C), shock from water change, or poisoning.
- Solution: Check the temperature and ensure there are no ammonia/nitrites. Perform water changes in small portions (no more than 15–20%).
Problem 3: Sensitivity to Copper
Like all invertebrates, Tylomelania are fatally sensitive to copper, which is often used in medications for treating Ich and other parasites.
- Prevention: Never use copper-containing medications in an aquarium with Tylomelania. If fish require treatment, the snails should be moved to a separate container.
FAQ and Expert Tips from taba.su: Final Recommendations for Success
Keeping orange and yellow Tylomelania is a fascinating experience that requires attention to detail, especially regarding water chemistry. Here are some quick answers and expert tips to ensure their prosperity.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Do Tylomelania eat live plants? Yes, they can eat soft, delicate plants, especially if they lack plant food in their diet. Provide them with blanched vegetables.
- Why is my Tylomelania not moving? Check the temperature. If it’s below 25°C, the snail will become lethargic. If the snail has closed its operculum, it may simply be resting or adapting to new conditions.
- Can orange and yellow ones be kept together? Yes, they get along well and have identical environmental requirements.
Expert Care Tips
1. Nitrate Level Control: Although Tylomelania are quite hardy, high nitrate levels (over 20 ppm) can weaken their immunity. Regular partial water changes are critically important.
2. Slow Acclimation: When purchasing new snails, acclimate them very slowly, using the drip method, to avoid shock from changes in pH and hardness. This is especially important for imported individuals.
3. Using Mineral Substrates: Consider adding coral or crushed shells to the filter or substrate for natural stabilization of carbonate hardness and maintaining the high pH necessary for the health of these magnificent “rabbits” of Sulawesi.